Amazon prices on this page were read from Amazon at 11:33 UTC on 19 Oct 2026. Prices change. Amazon's page shows the current price. Any price more than 24 hours old is hidden.
Refrigerator · 10 documented failures, each with the part, the price, the video and the manual page.
We earn a commission on Amazon purchases made through links on this page. It never changes how causes are ranked or what a part costs you.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $40.99–$76.74 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (5.2%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door hinge
Usually DIY
If the door frame itself is bent or cracked, that's a cabinet-level repair, not a hinge swap - a technician or the manufacturer's parts/service line is the next step.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Leveling the fridge and tightening the existing hinge screws fixes most sagging-door complaints for free - try that before ordering a hinge.
Check, in this order
Check that the fridge itself is level front-to-back and side-to-side first - an unlevel cabinet is the most common cause of a door that won't stay shut.
Look for play or visible wear in the hinge pin and cam before assuming the hinge itself has failed.
Tighten the hinge screws and the cabinet mounting screws - they loosen with years of door slamming.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator before removing any panels near the hinge.
Support the door before loosening hinge screws - it can swing free and drop.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Tighten the top and bottom hinge screws and the cabinet-frame screws that anchor them.
Re-level the fridge using its front leveling legs or rollers.
If the door still sags or binds, remove the top hinge cover and inspect the hinge pin and cam for wear or cracking.
Photograph the hinge assembly, remove the worn hinge, and fit the replacement.
Reinstall the door and recheck alignment before loading it back up.
How you know it worked. The door closes and seals on its own from a few inches open, and stays aligned after several open/close cycles.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $29.95–$69.20 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (4.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Dispenser
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part when the refrigerator ice maker is not working
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Deactivate the dispenser lock and clear any ice jam in the chute - both are manual-listed, no-part causes.
Check, in this order
Check the dispenser lock is off.
Look for ice jamming the chute - the manual notes jams after about three weeks unused.
Confirm the water filter is not overdue.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Turn off the water supply.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
The repair, in order
Check the dispenser lock is off and the filter is not overdue.
Look for ice jamming the chute - the manual notes ice jams after about three weeks unused.
Photograph the harness before removing the dispenser assembly.
How you know it worked. Both water and ice dispense normally.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $36.03–$130.39 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (8.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Damper
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is not cooling
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Unblock the vents and redistribute food away from the airflow path.
Check, in this order
Confirm food is not blocking the vents - the manual lists this first.
Check whether one compartment is at temperature while the other is not.
Watch the damper flap move; iced or jammed confirms it.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Confirm food is not blocking the vents - the manual lists this first.
Locate the damper between freezer and fridge airflow paths.
Check the flap moves freely and is not iced or jammed.
Photograph the connector and swap the assembly.
How you know it worked. The fridge compartment holds its set temperature without the freezer over-cooling.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $27.99–$62.50 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (4.2%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Water inlet valve
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part when the ice maker is not working
The valve itself is a straightforward owner swap; if water is leaking from the household shutoff or supply line under pressure, that plumbing connection may be worth a plumber's attention.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix once the valve solenoid itself has failed - a kinked line or closed shutoff costs nothing to correct, but a bad solenoid needs the part.
Check, in this order
Confirm the shutoff valve behind or under the fridge is fully open - a partly closed valve mimics a failed inlet valve.
Check the supply line for a kink or freeze point before assuming the valve itself has failed.
Listen for the valve buzzing when the dispenser or ice maker calls for water - silence points to the valve or its wiring, buzzing with no flow points downstream.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Turn off the household water supply before disconnecting any water line.
Keep a towel and shallow pan under the valve - line disconnects always drip.
Tools
Adjustable wrench ($14) — Gas supply and manifold fittings; also water-line compression fittings on ice maker supply tubes.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Locate the water inlet valve, usually behind the lower rear access panel or under the unit.
Photograph the wiring harness and water-line connections before disconnecting anything.
Test the valve's solenoid coils for continuity with the multimeter.
Disconnect the water lines and harness, replace the valve, and reconnect using the photos as a reference.
Turn the water supply back on and check every fitting for drips before pushing the fridge back.
How you know it worked. Water dispenses and the ice maker fills on the next cycle, with no drips at any reconnected fitting.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $48.95 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (3.3%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Temperature sensor
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is freezing the food
DIY once measured. If the reading is correct but cooling is wrong, the fault is elsewhere.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check the set temperature has not been changed, and that Energy Saver mode is off - both are manual-listed causes.
Check, in this order
Leave a thermometer inside for a few hours and compare against the display.
Test the thermistor's resistance against the service value before replacing.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Compare the displayed temperature against a thermometer left inside for a few hours.
Locate the thermistor in the affected compartment.
Test resistance against the service value before replacing.
Swap the sensor, reconnect, and let the fridge run 24 hours before judging.
How you know it worked. Displayed and measured temperature agree, and cooling cycles normally.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $8.90–$9.99 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (0.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Evaporator fan
Usually DIY
DIY. If the blade was locked in ice, fix the defrost system instead - swapping the fan will not hold.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check nothing is blocking the vents - the manual lists blocked vents before any part.
Check, in this order
Note the split: freezer cold but fridge warm is the classic evaporator-fan pattern.
Hold the freezer door switch in - the fan should run; silence with the switch held is the tell.
Remove the freezer rear panel and check the blade is not locked in ice; if it is, the defrost system is the real fault.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Empty the freezer; the panel cannot come off around food.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Open the freezer and listen: this fan normally stops when the door opens, so press the door switch to keep it running.
Remove the freezer rear panel to expose the evaporator and fan.
Check for an ice sheet locking the blade - if present the problem is the defrost system, not the fan.
Photograph the connector, swap the fan, refit the panel.
How you know it worked. Fridge compartment returns to temperature and the fan is audible with the door switch held in.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $9.90–$26.99 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (1.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Start relay
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is not cooling
The start relay itself is a genuinely owner-replaceable part - it clips on and off the outside of the compressor. The compressor and its sealed refrigerant system are different: never open refrigerant lines or attempt to recharge the system yourself - that requires EPA Section 608 certification. If a new relay doesn't bring the compressor to life, the compressor itself or the sealed system is the next suspect, and that's a certified technician's job.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix for a failed start relay - it's a low-cost, clip-on part, but it does need replacing, not repairing.
Check, in this order
Listen for a repeated clicking sound near the compressor every few minutes - that's the classic start-relay symptom, the compressor trying and failing to start.
Confirm the fridge is actually receiving power (outlet, cord, breaker) before suspecting the relay.
Pull the relay off the compressor terminals and shake it gently - a rattle can indicate a failed relay, though this isn't conclusive on its own.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Confirm the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester before touching anything near the compressor.
The relay clips onto the compressor terminals - handle it, not the compressor's refrigerant lines or fittings.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Non-contact voltage tester ($18) — Many ranges are hard-wired, not plugged in - confirm the circuit is actually dead before touching it.
The repair, in order
Unclip the compressor terminal cover and locate the relay/overload assembly clipped to the compressor's side terminals.
Photograph the wiring before removing anything.
Pull the relay off the terminals and test it with the multimeter's continuity function between its terminals.
Fit the replacement relay onto the compressor terminals in the same orientation, and refit the terminal cover.
How you know it worked. The compressor starts and runs without clicking, and the fridge pulls down to temperature over the following hours.
No Amazon listing for this part number was new and in stock at our last read.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. (Price not shown: our last Amazon read of these listings is more than 24 hours old.)Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Capacitor
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is not cooling
The capacitor sits outside the sealed refrigerant system and is owner-replaceable. It shares its compartment with the compressor and the sealed system, though - if replacing the capacitor and relay doesn't restore normal starting, the compressor or sealed system is the suspect, and diagnosing or opening the sealed system requires EPA Section 608 certification, not a DIY step.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix for a failed capacitor - it's inexpensive but must be replaced, not repaired.
Check, in this order
Confirm the compressor is humming or tripping the breaker rather than staying silent - that pattern points at the run/start capacitor rather than the relay or the compressor windings.
Check the capacitor case for bulging, cracking, or leaked residue - visible damage is a reliable sign it has failed.
Test capacitance against the value printed on the capacitor's own label if your multimeter supports it.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator and confirm the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester.
A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is removed - avoid touching its terminals with bare hands until the unit has sat unplugged for several minutes.
Photograph the wiring before disconnecting the capacitor.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Non-contact voltage tester ($18) — Many ranges are hard-wired, not plugged in - confirm the circuit is actually dead before touching it.
The repair, in order
Access the compressor compartment and locate the capacitor, usually a small canister near the start relay.
Photograph the wiring, then disconnect the capacitor's leads.
Test the capacitor's condition (visible damage, or a capacitance reading against its label).
Fit the replacement capacitor with the same rating and reconnect the leads exactly as photographed.
How you know it worked. The compressor starts cleanly without humming or tripping the breaker, and the fridge holds temperature over 24 hours.
Only listings that were new and in stock at our last Amazon read are shown. Check the listing before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $12.12–$21.95 against $1,481.09 for a new machine (1.5%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door seal
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator door is having issues staying closed
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean the gasket - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause, and a warmed, reshaped gasket often seals again.
Check, in this order
Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull - it should drag on all four sides.
Look for frost or condensation forming near the door edge, which the manual attributes to a door not closing properly.
Check the gasket for tears, and for food or a drawer holding the door open.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator for any panel work.
Tools
Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
The repair, in order
Clean the gasket first - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause.
Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull; it should drag.
Warm a deformed gasket gently with a hair dryer and reshape before buying one.
If torn, peel the old gasket from its channel and press the new one in from the corners out.
How you know it worked. Paper test drags on all four sides and frost does not return at the door edge.
No Amazon listing for this part number was new and in stock at our last read.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. (Price not shown: our last Amazon read of these listings is more than 24 hours old.)Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
If you replace it instead
Configuration-matched to this machine (side-by-side, ~22.1 cu ft). These are UPC-verified Amazon listings. Like-for-like replacement rarely pays for itself on energy alone — replace for fit and features, or because the repair maths above says so.
A candidate must match this machine's configuration (style, fuel and defrost class) before price or efficiency is considered. Check the listing before buying.
Or see the whole class
We rank every refrigerator we hold certification data for, within its own size and configuration class, so you are comparing machines that would fit the same space. See the refrigerator rankings →