The dishes come out dirty or gritty — circulation pump, pressure sensor, spray arm, diverter valve
There's water left in the bottom — drain pump, check valve
It's leaking onto the floor — door seal, water supply tube
It won't start or the door won't latch — door latch, control board
The water doesn't seem to get hot — heating element
Documented failures
Pressure sensor
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clear any kink in the pressure sensor's air tube — a pinched tube reads as a sensor fault and costs nothing to check.
Check, in this order
Confirm the fill level actually looks short or long by watching a cycle — a sensor fault shows as a consistently wrong fill, not an occasional one.
Check the sensor's tubing or diaphragm for a kink or blockage before assuming the sensor itself has failed.
Test the sensor for continuity or resistance change if your model allows it.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Tools
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Remove the lower rack and locate the pressure sensor at the base of the tub or on the pump housing.
Photograph the tubing and wiring before disconnecting anything.
Swap the sensor and reconnect the tube and wiring exactly as photographed.
Run a fill cycle and confirm the water reaches the correct level before the wash starts.
How you know it worked. The tub fills to a consistent, correct level on every cycle, with no overfill or underfill.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $18.96–$28.50 against $279.87 for a new machine (10.2%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Spray arm
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clear the spray-arm holes with a pin and reseat the arm fully on its hub before assuming it's cracked.
Check, in this order
Spin the arm by hand — it should turn freely with no wobble or drag.
Look closely for hairline cracks near the hub and jet holes that are enlarged or broken through.
Clear the jet holes with a pin first — clogged jets mimic a cracked or worn arm.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Lift the arm off its hub — most spray arms simply lift free once the rack is out.
Inspect the hub and bearing ring for wear alongside the arm itself.
Snap the new arm onto the hub until it seats and spins freely.
Run a cycle and confirm even spray from every jet.
How you know it worked. The arm spins freely through a full cycle and every jet sprays evenly.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $23.99 against $279.87 for a new machine (8.6%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Circulation pump
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
Borderline DIY. It is a big strip-down; if the sump seal will not seat cleanly, get a technician before you flood the floor.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean the spray arm holes and the filter — blocked jets mimic a dead circulation pump exactly.
Check, in this order
Spin both spray arms by hand — if they are blocked or clogged, wash pressure fails without any pump fault.
Clear the spray-arm holes with a pin and re-run before condemning the pump.
Listen: a circulation pump that is running but not moving water sounds normal but leaves dishes dirty.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Close the water supply valve.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Remove the lower rack, filter and spray arm.
Photograph the sump wiring before disconnecting.
Release the pump housing, swap the assembly, and reseat the seal squarely.
Run a full cycle and check underneath for leaks.
How you know it worked. Dishes come out clean and the spray arms turn strongly through the wash.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $6.50–$21.53 against $279.87 for a new machine (7.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Drain pump
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY. Call someone if the machine is hard-wired and you are not comfortable at the breaker, or if the sump itself is cracked.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean the bottom filter and check the disposer knock-out plug — the two commonest causes need no parts.
Check, in this order
Clear the filter at the bottom first — food debris there produces exactly this symptom and costs nothing.
Check the drain hose to the disposer or standpipe for a kink, and that the disposer knock-out plug was removed if it was newly installed.
Listen during the drain step: a hum with no water movement points at a seized pump; silence points at power or the control.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker — a dishwasher is usually hard-wired, not plugged in.
Close the water supply valve under the sink.
Bail out the standing water before tilting anything.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Bail the standing water and remove the lower rack and filter.
Pull the machine out far enough to reach the underside; some models are serviced from below.
Photograph the wiring and hose clamps before releasing anything.
Release the pump from its mount, swap it in, and reseat every clamp.
Restore power and water, then run a rinse cycle watching for leaks before pushing it back.
How you know it worked. A full drain within the drain step, no standing water at cycle end, no drip under the machine.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Weigh it - this part is a meaningful share of a new machine. Part $40.99–$49.75 against $279.87 for a new machine (17.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door latch
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check nothing in the upper rack is stopping the door closing fully, and that the strike is not bent.
Check, in this order
Confirm the door closes firmly and the strike is aligned.
Test the latch switch for continuity in the closed position — a dishwasher will not start on a failed switch even though the door feels shut.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
T20 Torx driver ($7) — Some control and door assemblies use Torx rather than hex.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Open the inner door panel to reach the latch assembly.
Photograph the switch wiring, swap the latch, and check alignment before reassembling.
How you know it worked. The cycle starts on a normal close, every time.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $14.99 against $279.87 for a new machine (5.4%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Heating element
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY once tested with a multimeter.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Run the tap hot before starting a cycle — a cold-fill water heater problem looks identical to a dead element and costs nothing to rule out.
Check, in this order
Confirm the thermostat isn't the actual fault first — test the element itself for continuity before replacing it.
Look for a visibly broken or blistered section of the element.
Run the tap hot before starting a cycle to rule out cold-fill as the cause.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker — a dishwasher is usually hard-wired, not plugged in.
Let the element cool before touching it.
Tools
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Remove the lower rack and access the element at the base of the tub.
Photograph the wiring terminals before disconnecting.
Test the element for continuity with a multimeter to confirm before ordering a part.
Swap the element and reconnect the terminals exactly as photographed.
Run a full cycle and confirm the water and dishes are hot at the end.
How you know it worked. Dishes and the interior are hot to the touch at the end of a cycle, and plastics dry properly.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $38.00 against $279.87 for a new machine (13.6%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Control board
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
Get a technician to confirm before buying a board — it is the most expensive part and the most misdiagnosed.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check the breaker and the switched outlet under the sink before anything else.
Check, in this order
Rule out the latch switch, the panel and the power supply first — all are cheaper and all present as a dead machine.
Inspect the board for scorching or swollen capacitors.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Photograph every connector before removing any.
Tools
T20 Torx driver ($7) — Some control and door assemblies use Torx rather than hex.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Locate the board behind the lower access panel or in the door.
Transfer connectors one at a time against your photographs.
How you know it worked. Normal start-up and a completed cycle.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Weigh it - this part is a meaningful share of a new machine. Part $102.95 against $279.87 for a new machine (36.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door seal
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean the gasket and its channel — debris holds the door open a fraction and leaks.
Check, in this order
Run a cycle and watch where the water actually appears — door face means the seal, under the machine means plumbing.
Inspect the gasket for tears, hardening, or a section pushed out of its channel.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Tools
Thin putty knife ($5) — Releasing clips without marking the cabinet.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
The repair, in order
Peel the old gasket from its channel, noting the orientation.
Clean the channel completely.
Press the new gasket in from the centre of each run outwards so it cannot stretch short.
How you know it worked. A full cycle with no water on the door face or the floor.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $9.70–$16.90 against $279.87 for a new machine (6.0%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Diverter valve
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Confirm both spray arms are clear and spinning freely first — a clogged arm can look exactly like a diverter stuck on one side.
Check, in this order
Watch a cycle and note which rack gets water — one rack spraying strongly while the other stays dry points here, not at the pump.
Confirm both spray arms themselves spin freely and aren't clogged before blaming the diverter.
Check the diverter flap for a cracked or stuck seal.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Remove the lower rack and access the diverter assembly at the pump housing.
Photograph the assembly before disconnecting anything.
Swap the valve/flap assembly and reseat it fully.
Run a cycle and confirm water reaches both the upper and lower spray arms in turn.
How you know it worked. Both racks get strong spray through a full cycle, alternating normally.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $21.75–$24.90 against $279.87 for a new machine (8.9%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Check valve
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Confirm the drain hose still has its high loop (or the air gap is intact) before assuming the check valve itself has failed — a fallen loop is the far more common cause.
Check, in this order
Confirm water is appearing in the tub between cycles, not just at the end of a wash — a failed check valve lets drain water siphon back in.
Check the drain hose's high loop or air gap is still correctly installed — a missing loop causes the identical symptom without the valve being at fault.
Rule out the drain pump and filter as the source before condemning the valve.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Bail any standing water and remove the lower rack and filter to reach the valve.
Photograph the hose routing before disconnecting.
Swap the check valve, matching the flow direction arrow if it has one.
Restore power and run a cycle, checking for water sitting in the tub afterward.
How you know it worked. No water sitting in the tub between cycles or at a fresh start.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $22.20 against $279.87 for a new machine (7.9%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Water supply tube
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY. Call a plumber if the shut-off valve itself will not close.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Tighten the supply fitting — many 'leaks' are a loose compression nut.
Check, in this order
Trace the leak with the machine pulled out and a torch — supply fittings weep slowly and look like a door leak.
Check the fill valve connection and the tube's clamps.
Before you open anything
Cut power at the breaker.
Close the water supply valve before touching any fitting.
Tools
Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
The repair, in order
Close the valve and bail any water.
Release the clamps and swap the tube.
Restore water and check the fitting dry before restoring power.
How you know it worked. No moisture at any fitting after a full cycle.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $24.10–$27.79 against $279.87 for a new machine (9.9%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
If you replace it instead
Configuration-matched to this machine. Prices are UPC-verified Amazon listings, not estimates. Like-for-like replacement rarely pays for itself on energy alone — replace for fit and features, or because the repair maths above says so.
A candidate must match this machine's configuration (style, fuel and defrost class) before price or efficiency is considered. Prices are a snapshot from the date shown; availability is not monitored — check the retailer before buying.
Or see the whole class
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