Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Repair or replace? Confirm the fault with the listed checks before buying this higher-cost component. A single confirmed failure can be repairable; compare a technician parts-and-labor quote with replacement if other major drive, cooling, or electronic faults are present.General guidance for this component — no model-specific price maths behind it.
Temperature sensor
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part when the refrigerator is not cooling
DIY once measured. If the reading is correct but cooling is wrong, the fault is elsewhere.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check the set temperature has not been changed, and that Energy Saver mode is off - both are manual-listed causes.
Check, in this order
Leave a thermometer inside for a few hours and compare against the display.
Test the thermistor's resistance against the service value before replacing.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Compare the displayed temperature against a thermometer left inside for a few hours.
Locate the thermistor in the affected compartment.
Test resistance against the service value before replacing.
Swap the sensor, reconnect, and let the fridge run 24 hours before judging.
How you know it worked. Displayed and measured temperature agree, and cooling cycles normally.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Repair or replace? Repair first once the listed checks confirm this component. It is usually a contained repair; reconsider replacement only if multiple major faults or a disproportionate technician quote are present.General guidance for this component — no model-specific price maths behind it.
Door seal
Usually DIY
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean the gasket - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause, and a warmed, reshaped gasket often seals again.
Check, in this order
Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull - it should drag on all four sides.
Look for frost or condensation forming near the door edge, which the manual attributes to a door not closing properly.
Check the gasket for tears, and for food or a drawer holding the door open.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator for any panel work.
Tools
Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
The repair, in order
Clean the gasket first - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause.
Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull; it should drag.
Warm a deformed gasket gently with a hair dryer and reshape before buying one.
If torn, peel the old gasket from its channel and press the new one in from the corners out.
How you know it worked. Paper test drags on all four sides and frost does not return at the door edge.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Repair or replace? Repair first once the listed checks confirm this component. It is usually a contained repair; reconsider replacement only if multiple major faults or a disproportionate technician quote are present.General guidance for this component — no model-specific price maths behind it.
Evaporator fan
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part when the refrigerator is not cooling
DIY. If the blade was locked in ice, fix the defrost system instead - swapping the fan will not hold.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check nothing is blocking the vents - the manual lists blocked vents before any part.
Check, in this order
Note the split: freezer cold but fridge warm is the classic evaporator-fan pattern.
Hold the freezer door switch in - the fan should run; silence with the switch held is the tell.
Remove the freezer rear panel and check the blade is not locked in ice; if it is, the defrost system is the real fault.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Empty the freezer; the panel cannot come off around food.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Open the freezer and listen: this fan normally stops when the door opens, so press the door switch to keep it running.
Remove the freezer rear panel to expose the evaporator and fan.
Check for an ice sheet locking the blade - if present the problem is the defrost system, not the fan.
Photograph the connector, swap the fan, refit the panel.
How you know it worked. Fridge compartment returns to temperature and the fan is audible with the door switch held in.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Repair or replace? Confirm the fault with the listed checks before buying this higher-cost component. A single confirmed failure can be repairable; compare a technician parts-and-labor quote with replacement if other major drive, cooling, or electronic faults are present.General guidance for this component — no model-specific price maths behind it.
Control board
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part when the refrigerator is not cooling
Get a technician to confirm before buying a board. It is the most expensive part here and the most commonly misdiagnosed.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Power-cycle the fridge at the wall for five minutes before assuming a board fault.
Check, in this order
Rule out fans, sensor, damper and door switch first - the board is the expensive part they all get blamed for.
Inspect the board for scorching or swollen capacitors.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Photograph every connector before removing any.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
The repair, in order
Rule out the cheaper causes first - fans, sensor, damper, door switch.
Inspect the board for scorching or swollen capacitors.
Transfer connectors one at a time against your photographs.
How you know it worked. Normal cooling and display behaviour over 24 hours.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Repair or replace? Confirm the fault with the listed checks before buying this higher-cost component. A single confirmed failure can be repairable; compare a technician parts-and-labor quote with replacement if other major drive, cooling, or electronic faults are present.General guidance for this component — no model-specific price maths behind it.
Door hinge
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part when the refrigerator door is not secured or having issues opening and closing
If the door frame itself is bent or cracked, that's a cabinet-level repair, not a hinge swap - a technician or the manufacturer's parts/service line is the next step.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Leveling the fridge and tightening the existing hinge screws fixes most sagging-door complaints for free - try that before ordering a hinge.
Check, in this order
Check that the fridge itself is level front-to-back and side-to-side first - an unlevel cabinet is the most common cause of a door that won't stay shut.
Look for play or visible wear in the hinge pin and cam before assuming the hinge itself has failed.
Tighten the hinge screws and the cabinet mounting screws - they loosen with years of door slamming.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator before removing any panels near the hinge.
Support the door before loosening hinge screws - it can swing free and drop.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Tighten the top and bottom hinge screws and the cabinet-frame screws that anchor them.
Re-level the fridge using its front leveling legs or rollers.
If the door still sags or binds, remove the top hinge cover and inspect the hinge pin and cam for wear or cracking.
Photograph the hinge assembly, remove the worn hinge, and fit the replacement.
Reinstall the door and recheck alignment before loading it back up.
How you know it worked. The door closes and seals on its own from a few inches open, and stays aligned after several open/close cycles.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Repair or replace? Repair first once the listed checks confirm this component. It is usually a contained repair; reconsider replacement only if multiple major faults or a disproportionate technician quote are present.General guidance for this component — no model-specific price maths behind it.
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