Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $20.92–$128.30 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (10.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Defrost heater
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the evaporator is freezing over
DIY, but slow - it needs a full thaw first. Call someone if ice returns within a week of a correct repair.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Thaw it fully and clear the defrost drain - a blocked drain refreezes and imitates a dead heater.
Check, in this order
Look for a sheet of ice on the freezer's rear evaporator panel - that is the signature.
Check whether the defrost drain is blocked while everything is thawed.
Test the heater element for continuity before buying one.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Never chip ice off the evaporator with anything metal - the coil punctures easily.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
The repair, in order
Empty the freezer and remove the rear panel.
If the evaporator is encased in ice, thaw it fully first (a hair dryer on low, or 24 hours unplugged with doors open).
Check the defrost drain is clear while everything is thawed - a blocked drain refreezes and mimics this fault.
Test the heater element for continuity before replacing it.
Fit the replacement, refit the panel, restock.
How you know it worked. No ice sheet returns on the evaporator over the following week and the fridge holds temperature.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $31.41 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (2.6%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Water inlet valve
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is not making ice cubes or dispensing water
The valve itself is a straightforward owner swap; if water is leaking from the household shutoff or supply line under pressure, that plumbing connection may be worth a plumber's attention.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix once the valve solenoid itself has failed - a kinked line or closed shutoff costs nothing to correct, but a bad solenoid needs the part.
Check, in this order
Confirm the shutoff valve behind or under the fridge is fully open - a partly closed valve mimics a failed inlet valve.
Check the supply line for a kink or freeze point before assuming the valve itself has failed.
Listen for the valve buzzing when the dispenser or ice maker calls for water - silence points to the valve or its wiring, buzzing with no flow points downstream.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Turn off the household water supply before disconnecting any water line.
Keep a towel and shallow pan under the valve - line disconnects always drip.
Tools
Adjustable wrench ($14) — Gas supply and manifold fittings; also water-line compression fittings on ice maker supply tubes.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Locate the water inlet valve, usually behind the lower rear access panel or under the unit.
Photograph the wiring harness and water-line connections before disconnecting anything.
Test the valve's solenoid coils for continuity with the multimeter.
Disconnect the water lines and harness, replace the valve, and reconnect using the photos as a reference.
Turn the water supply back on and check every fitting for drips before pushing the fridge back.
How you know it worked. Water dispenses and the ice maker fills on the next cycle, with no drips at any reconnected fitting.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $21.89–$43.99 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (3.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Damper
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is not the correct temperature
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Unblock the vents and redistribute food away from the airflow path.
Check, in this order
Confirm food is not blocking the vents - the manual lists this first.
Check whether one compartment is at temperature while the other is not.
Watch the damper flap move; iced or jammed confirms it.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Confirm food is not blocking the vents - the manual lists this first.
Locate the damper between freezer and fridge airflow paths.
Check the flap moves freely and is not iced or jammed.
Photograph the connector and swap the assembly.
How you know it worked. The fridge compartment holds its set temperature without the freezer over-cooling.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $35.72–$45.07 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (3.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door hinge
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
If the door frame itself is bent or cracked, that's a cabinet-level repair, not a hinge swap - a technician or the manufacturer's parts/service line is the next step.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Leveling the fridge and tightening the existing hinge screws fixes most sagging-door complaints for free - try that before ordering a hinge.
Check, in this order
Check that the fridge itself is level front-to-back and side-to-side first - an unlevel cabinet is the most common cause of a door that won't stay shut.
Look for play or visible wear in the hinge pin and cam before assuming the hinge itself has failed.
Tighten the hinge screws and the cabinet mounting screws - they loosen with years of door slamming.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator before removing any panels near the hinge.
Support the door before loosening hinge screws - it can swing free and drop.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Tighten the top and bottom hinge screws and the cabinet-frame screws that anchor them.
Re-level the fridge using its front leveling legs or rollers.
If the door still sags or binds, remove the top hinge cover and inspect the hinge pin and cam for wear or cracking.
Photograph the hinge assembly, remove the worn hinge, and fit the replacement.
Reinstall the door and recheck alignment before loading it back up.
How you know it worked. The door closes and seals on its own from a few inches open, and stays aligned after several open/close cycles.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $35.89–$61.00 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (5.1%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Cold control thermostat
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is not cooling properly
This is a straightforward owner swap on most mechanical-thermostat fridges; if the compressor still won't cycle with a new thermostat, that points to the compressor, relay, or wiring, not the thermostat.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix for a thermostat that won't call for cooling at any setting - vacuuming the condenser coil (a genuine free fix) causes the same symptom and costs nothing to try first.
Check, in this order
Compare the displayed or dial setting against a thermometer left inside for a few hours, the same first check as for a temperature sensor.
Turn the dial through its full range and listen for the compressor clicking on and off - no response at any setting points at the thermostat rather than the compressor itself.
Rule out a blocked vent or dirty condenser coil first - both mimic a stuck thermostat.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Locate the cold control thermostat behind its dial in the fridge compartment.
Test continuity across its terminals at a cold setting and confirm it opens as the dial is turned down.
Photograph the wiring, unclip the thermostat and capillary tube, and fit the replacement.
Route the new capillary tube the same way the old one ran, against the compartment wall.
How you know it worked. The compressor cycles on and off as the dial is turned, and the compartment holds its set temperature over 24 hours.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $22.17 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (1.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Dispenser
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is leaking
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Deactivate the dispenser lock and clear any ice jam in the chute - both are manual-listed, no-part causes.
Check, in this order
Check the dispenser lock is off.
Look for ice jamming the chute - the manual notes jams after about three weeks unused.
Confirm the water filter is not overdue.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Turn off the water supply.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
The repair, in order
Check the dispenser lock is off and the filter is not overdue.
Look for ice jamming the chute - the manual notes ice jams after about three weeks unused.
Photograph the harness before removing the dispenser assembly.
How you know it worked. Both water and ice dispense normally.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $16.95–$176.31 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (14.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Condenser fan
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is noisy
DIY. Escalate if the fan is fine and both compartments are still warm, which points at the sealed system - that is a licensed job.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Vacuum the condenser coils - a clogged coil produces the same warm-fridge symptom and costs nothing.
Check, in this order
Pull the fridge out and feel the condenser coils - if they are furred with dust, clean them first and give it 24 hours.
With the compressor running, look at the fan: not spinning, or spinning and rattling, points here.
Spin the blade by hand with the power off; a seized or gritty bearing confirms it.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Let the compressor area cool - it runs hot.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Vacuum with a brush head ($0) — Condenser coils clog with dust and cause the same warm-fridge symptom as a dead fan.
The repair, in order
Pull the fridge out and remove the lower rear access panel.
Vacuum the condenser coils first - a clogged coil causes the same warm-fridge symptom and costs nothing to fix.
Spin the fan blade by hand: seized or noisy means replace; free and quiet means look elsewhere.
Photograph the wiring, unclip the fan assembly, fit the replacement.
Leave the panel off and confirm the fan runs when the compressor starts.
How you know it worked. Fan runs whenever the compressor runs, and both compartments pull down to temperature over 24 hours.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $19.99–$82.14 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (6.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Start relay
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator will not turn on
The start relay itself is a genuinely owner-replaceable part - it clips on and off the outside of the compressor. The compressor and its sealed refrigerant system are different: never open refrigerant lines or attempt to recharge the system yourself - that requires EPA Section 608 certification. If a new relay doesn't bring the compressor to life, the compressor itself or the sealed system is the next suspect, and that's a certified technician's job.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix for a failed start relay - it's a low-cost, clip-on part, but it does need replacing, not repairing.
Check, in this order
Listen for a repeated clicking sound near the compressor every few minutes - that's the classic start-relay symptom, the compressor trying and failing to start.
Confirm the fridge is actually receiving power (outlet, cord, breaker) before suspecting the relay.
Pull the relay off the compressor terminals and shake it gently - a rattle can indicate a failed relay, though this isn't conclusive on its own.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Confirm the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester before touching anything near the compressor.
The relay clips onto the compressor terminals - handle it, not the compressor's refrigerant lines or fittings.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Non-contact voltage tester ($18) — Many ranges are hard-wired, not plugged in - confirm the circuit is actually dead before touching it.
The repair, in order
Unclip the compressor terminal cover and locate the relay/overload assembly clipped to the compressor's side terminals.
Photograph the wiring before removing anything.
Pull the relay off the terminals and test it with the multimeter's continuity function between its terminals.
Fit the replacement relay onto the compressor terminals in the same orientation, and refit the terminal cover.
How you know it worked. The compressor starts and runs without clicking, and the fridge pulls down to temperature over the following hours.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $32.99–$45.20 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (3.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Defrost thermostat
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the evaporator is freezing over
This is a straightforward owner swap; if ice keeps returning after replacing the thermostat and the heater has already tested good, the defrost control board or timer is the next suspect.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix once the thermostat itself has failed - clearing a blocked defrost drain (a genuine free fix) can look identical from the outside, so rule that out first.
Check, in this order
Confirm the evaporator is actually building an ice sheet rather than just frosting normally - that's the defrost-system symptom, not a door-seal or damper issue.
Check the defrost heater hasn't already been ruled out - the thermostat works together with it and isn't always the first suspect.
Test the thermostat for continuity when cold, and confirm it opens as it warms, since it's meant to interrupt the heater once the evaporator is clear of ice.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Never chip ice off the evaporator with anything metal - the coil punctures easily.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
The repair, in order
Empty the freezer and remove the rear panel to expose the evaporator.
Thaw any ice sheet fully before testing or removing anything, the same as for the defrost heater.
Locate the thermostat clipped to the evaporator coil and test it for continuity.
Photograph the wiring, unclip the thermostat, and fit the replacement clipped to the same spot on the coil.
How you know it worked. No ice sheet returns on the evaporator over the following week, and the defrost cycle runs and clears on its normal schedule.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $59.98 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (5.0%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door switch
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean around the switch - sticky residue holds it in and the fridge thinks the door is open.
Check, in this order
Press the switch by hand and watch the interior light.
Test continuity in both positions.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Thin putty knife ($5) — Releasing clips without marking the cabinet.
The repair, in order
Press the switch by hand and watch the interior light.
Prise the switch out carefully - the bezel marks easily.
Test continuity in both positions before replacing.
How you know it worked. Light and evaporator fan respond correctly as the door opens and closes.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $10.12–$25.23 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (2.1%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Capacitor
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator will not start
The capacitor sits outside the sealed refrigerant system and is owner-replaceable. It shares its compartment with the compressor and the sealed system, though - if replacing the capacitor and relay doesn't restore normal starting, the compressor or sealed system is the suspect, and diagnosing or opening the sealed system requires EPA Section 608 certification, not a DIY step.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix for a failed capacitor - it's inexpensive but must be replaced, not repaired.
Check, in this order
Confirm the compressor is humming or tripping the breaker rather than staying silent - that pattern points at the run/start capacitor rather than the relay or the compressor windings.
Check the capacitor case for bulging, cracking, or leaked residue - visible damage is a reliable sign it has failed.
Test capacitance against the value printed on the capacitor's own label if your multimeter supports it.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator and confirm the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester.
A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is removed - avoid touching its terminals with bare hands until the unit has sat unplugged for several minutes.
Photograph the wiring before disconnecting the capacitor.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Non-contact voltage tester ($18) — Many ranges are hard-wired, not plugged in - confirm the circuit is actually dead before touching it.
The repair, in order
Access the compressor compartment and locate the capacitor, usually a small canister near the start relay.
Photograph the wiring, then disconnect the capacitor's leads.
Test the capacitor's condition (visible damage, or a capacitance reading against its label).
Fit the replacement capacitor with the same rating and reconnect the leads exactly as photographed.
How you know it worked. The compressor starts cleanly without humming or tripping the breaker, and the fridge holds temperature over 24 hours.
In your manual:the manual — checked; its troubleshooting section does not cover this part.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $8.99–$46.59 against $1,199.99 for a new machine (3.9%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
If you replace it instead
Configuration-matched to this machine (side-by-side, ~25.0 cu ft). Prices are UPC-verified Amazon listings, not estimates. Like-for-like replacement rarely pays for itself on energy alone — replace for fit and features, or because the repair maths above says so.
Model
Capacity
Energy cost
Price
Price checked
LG LS27T3230* Digits marked * vary by colour/finish; any model in this series matches.
A candidate must match this machine's configuration (style, fuel and defrost class) before price or efficiency is considered. Prices are a snapshot from the date shown; availability is not monitored — check the retailer before buying.
Or see the whole class
We rank every refrigerator we hold certification data for, within its own size and configuration class, so you are comparing machines that would fit the same space. See the refrigerator rankings →