Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Weigh it - this part is a meaningful share of a new machine. Part $15.95–$159.99 against $499.99 for a new machine (32.0%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Temperature sensor
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the freezer is not cooling properly
DIY once measured. If the reading is correct but cooling is wrong, the fault is elsewhere.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check the set temperature has not been changed, and that Energy Saver mode is off - both are manual-listed causes.
Check, in this order
Leave a thermometer inside for a few hours and compare against the display.
Test the thermistor's resistance against the service value before replacing.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Compare the displayed temperature against a thermometer left inside for a few hours.
Locate the thermistor in the affected compartment.
Test resistance against the service value before replacing.
Swap the sensor, reconnect, and let the fridge run 24 hours before judging.
How you know it worked. Displayed and measured temperature agree, and cooling cycles normally.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $7.99–$20.66 against $499.99 for a new machine (4.1%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Defrost heater
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the evaporator coils are freezing over
DIY, but slow - it needs a full thaw first. Call someone if ice returns within a week of a correct repair.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Thaw it fully and clear the defrost drain - a blocked drain refreezes and imitates a dead heater.
Check, in this order
Look for a sheet of ice on the freezer's rear evaporator panel - that is the signature.
Check whether the defrost drain is blocked while everything is thawed.
Test the heater element for continuity before buying one.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Never chip ice off the evaporator with anything metal - the coil punctures easily.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
The repair, in order
Empty the freezer and remove the rear panel.
If the evaporator is encased in ice, thaw it fully first (a hair dryer on low, or 24 hours unplugged with doors open).
Check the defrost drain is clear while everything is thawed - a blocked drain refreezes and mimics this fault.
Test the heater element for continuity before replacing it.
Fit the replacement, refit the panel, restock.
How you know it worked. No ice sheet returns on the evaporator over the following week and the fridge holds temperature.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Weigh it - this part is a meaningful share of a new machine. Part $73.07–$115.41 against $499.99 for a new machine (23.1%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Start relay
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it the refrigerator will not work at all
The start relay itself is a genuinely owner-replaceable part - it clips on and off the outside of the compressor. The compressor and its sealed refrigerant system are different: never open refrigerant lines or attempt to recharge the system yourself - that requires EPA Section 608 certification. If a new relay doesn't bring the compressor to life, the compressor itself or the sealed system is the next suspect, and that's a certified technician's job.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix for a failed start relay - it's a low-cost, clip-on part, but it does need replacing, not repairing.
Check, in this order
Listen for a repeated clicking sound near the compressor every few minutes - that's the classic start-relay symptom, the compressor trying and failing to start.
Confirm the fridge is actually receiving power (outlet, cord, breaker) before suspecting the relay.
Pull the relay off the compressor terminals and shake it gently - a rattle can indicate a failed relay, though this isn't conclusive on its own.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Confirm the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester before touching anything near the compressor.
The relay clips onto the compressor terminals - handle it, not the compressor's refrigerant lines or fittings.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Non-contact voltage tester ($18) — Many ranges are hard-wired, not plugged in - confirm the circuit is actually dead before touching it.
The repair, in order
Unclip the compressor terminal cover and locate the relay/overload assembly clipped to the compressor's side terminals.
Photograph the wiring before removing anything.
Pull the relay off the terminals and test it with the multimeter's continuity function between its terminals.
Fit the replacement relay onto the compressor terminals in the same orientation, and refit the terminal cover.
How you know it worked. The compressor starts and runs without clicking, and the fridge pulls down to temperature over the following hours.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $51.99–$54.00 against $499.99 for a new machine (10.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Evaporator fan
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is noisy
DIY. If the blade was locked in ice, fix the defrost system instead - swapping the fan will not hold.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Check nothing is blocking the vents - the manual lists blocked vents before any part.
Check, in this order
Note the split: freezer cold but fridge warm is the classic evaporator-fan pattern.
Hold the freezer door switch in - the fan should run; silence with the switch held is the tell.
Remove the freezer rear panel and check the blade is not locked in ice; if it is, the defrost system is the real fault.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Empty the freezer; the panel cannot come off around food.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Open the freezer and listen: this fan normally stops when the door opens, so press the door switch to keep it running.
Remove the freezer rear panel to expose the evaporator and fan.
Check for an ice sheet locking the blade - if present the problem is the defrost system, not the fan.
Photograph the connector, swap the fan, refit the panel.
How you know it worked. Fridge compartment returns to temperature and the fan is audible with the door switch held in.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $16.27–$38.27 against $499.99 for a new machine (7.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Control board
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator will not cool at all
Get a technician to confirm before buying a board. It is the most expensive part here and the most commonly misdiagnosed.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Power-cycle the fridge at the wall for five minutes before assuming a board fault.
Check, in this order
Rule out fans, sensor, damper and door switch first - the board is the expensive part they all get blamed for.
Inspect the board for scorching or swollen capacitors.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Photograph every connector before removing any.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
The repair, in order
Rule out the cheaper causes first - fans, sensor, damper, door switch.
Inspect the board for scorching or swollen capacitors.
Transfer connectors one at a time against your photographs.
How you know it worked. Normal cooling and display behaviour over 24 hours.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Weigh it - this part is a meaningful share of a new machine. Part $83.10–$336.00 against $499.99 for a new machine (67.2%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door switch
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the light is not working properly
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean around the switch - sticky residue holds it in and the fridge thinks the door is open.
Check, in this order
Press the switch by hand and watch the interior light.
Test continuity in both positions.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Tools
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Thin putty knife ($5) — Releasing clips without marking the cabinet.
The repair, in order
Press the switch by hand and watch the interior light.
Prise the switch out carefully - the bezel marks easily.
Test continuity in both positions before replacing.
How you know it worked. Light and evaporator fan respond correctly as the door opens and closes.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $4.37 against $499.99 for a new machine (0.9%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Condenser fan
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is noisy
DIY. Escalate if the fan is fine and both compartments are still warm, which points at the sealed system - that is a licensed job.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Vacuum the condenser coils - a clogged coil produces the same warm-fridge symptom and costs nothing.
Check, in this order
Pull the fridge out and feel the condenser coils - if they are furred with dust, clean them first and give it 24 hours.
With the compressor running, look at the fan: not spinning, or spinning and rattling, points here.
Spin the blade by hand with the power off; a seized or gritty bearing confirms it.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Let the compressor area cool - it runs hot.
Tools
5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
#2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Vacuum with a brush head ($0) — Condenser coils clog with dust and cause the same warm-fridge symptom as a dead fan.
The repair, in order
Pull the fridge out and remove the lower rear access panel.
Vacuum the condenser coils first - a clogged coil causes the same warm-fridge symptom and costs nothing to fix.
Spin the fan blade by hand: seized or noisy means replace; free and quiet means look elsewhere.
Photograph the wiring, unclip the fan assembly, fit the replacement.
Leave the panel off and confirm the fan runs when the compressor starts.
How you know it worked. Fan runs whenever the compressor runs, and both compartments pull down to temperature over 24 hours.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Weigh it - this part is a meaningful share of a new machine. Part $19.99–$129.14 against $499.99 for a new machine (25.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Door seal
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if it is damaged or missing
DIY.
Try this first — it costs nothing. Clean the gasket - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause, and a warmed, reshaped gasket often seals again.
Check, in this order
Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull - it should drag on all four sides.
Look for frost or condensation forming near the door edge, which the manual attributes to a door not closing properly.
Check the gasket for tears, and for food or a drawer holding the door open.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator for any panel work.
Tools
Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
The repair, in order
Clean the gasket first - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause.
Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull; it should drag.
Warm a deformed gasket gently with a hair dryer and reshape before buying one.
If torn, peel the old gasket from its channel and press the new one in from the corners out.
How you know it worked. Paper test drags on all four sides and frost does not return at the door edge.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Weigh it - this part is a meaningful share of a new machine. Part $89.99–$172.45 against $499.99 for a new machine (34.5%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Water line
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is leaking
This is a straightforward owner repair; if the leak is at the household shutoff valve itself rather than the fridge's line, that fitting may be worth a plumber's attention.
Try this first — it costs nothing. A kinked or frozen line costs nothing to fix - straighten it and reroute it away from the cold rear panel, or thaw it, before assuming the line itself needs replacing.
Check, in this order
Trace the line from the shutoff to the inlet valve for a kink, especially where the fridge was last pushed back against the wall.
Feel along the line where it runs behind the fridge for an ice blockage - a line resting against the rear panel can freeze.
Look for a slow drip or mineral crust at any compression fitting.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator for any panel work.
Turn off the household water supply before disconnecting the line.
Keep a towel and shallow pan under the connection point.
Tools
Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
Adjustable wrench ($14) — Gas supply and manifold fittings; also water-line compression fittings on ice maker supply tubes.
Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
The repair, in order
Pull the fridge out and trace the water line from the shutoff valve to the water inlet valve.
Straighten any kink and reroute the line away from the rear panel if it was resting against it.
If frozen, thaw gently (room-temperature air, or a hair dryer on low held well back) rather than forcing it.
If the line is split, cracked, or its fitting won't seal after reseating, cut back to sound tubing and fit new line with matching compression fittings.
How you know it worked. Full water flow reaches the ice maker or dispenser within a normal cycle, and no drips appear at any fitting after an hour.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $20.92–$27.45 against $499.99 for a new machine (5.5%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
Water inlet valve
Usually DIYVendor replaces this part if the refrigerator is not receiving water
The valve itself is a straightforward owner swap; if water is leaking from the household shutoff or supply line under pressure, that plumbing connection may be worth a plumber's attention.
Try this first — it costs nothing. There's no free fix once the valve solenoid itself has failed - a kinked line or closed shutoff costs nothing to correct, but a bad solenoid needs the part.
Check, in this order
Confirm the shutoff valve behind or under the fridge is fully open - a partly closed valve mimics a failed inlet valve.
Check the supply line for a kink or freeze point before assuming the valve itself has failed.
Listen for the valve buzzing when the dispenser or ice maker calls for water - silence points to the valve or its wiring, buzzing with no flow points downstream.
Before you open anything
Unplug the refrigerator.
Turn off the household water supply before disconnecting any water line.
Keep a towel and shallow pan under the valve - line disconnects always drip.
Tools
Adjustable wrench ($14) — Gas supply and manifold fittings; also water-line compression fittings on ice maker supply tubes.
Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
The repair, in order
Locate the water inlet valve, usually behind the lower rear access panel or under the unit.
Photograph the wiring harness and water-line connections before disconnecting anything.
Test the valve's solenoid coils for continuity with the multimeter.
Disconnect the water lines and harness, replace the valve, and reconnect using the photos as a reference.
Turn the water supply back on and check every fitting for drips before pushing the fridge back.
How you know it worked. Water dispenses and the ice maker fills on the next cycle, with no drips at any reconnected fitting.
Prices are a snapshot taken on the date shown and are not monitored. Check the retailer before buying.
Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $23.66–$68.72 against $499.99 for a new machine (13.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.
If you replace it instead
Configuration-matched to this machine (top-freezer, ~18.2 cu ft). Prices are UPC-verified Amazon listings, not estimates. Like-for-like replacement rarely pays for itself on energy alone — replace for fit and features, or because the repair maths above says so.
A candidate must match this machine's configuration (style, fuel and defrost class) before price or efficiency is considered. Prices are a snapshot from the date shown; availability is not monitored — check the retailer before buying.
Or see the whole class
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