Whirlpool WRX735SDHZ

Control board

Get a technician to confirm before buying a board. It is the most expensive part here and the most commonly misdiagnosed.

Check, in this order

1. Rule out fans, sensor, damper and door switch first - the board is the expensive part they all get blamed for.
2. Inspect the board for scorching or swollen capacitors.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Photograph every connector before removing any.

Tools

• 5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
• Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.

The repair, in order

1. Rule out the cheaper causes first - fans, sensor, damper, door switch.
2. Inspect the board for scorching or swollen capacitors.
3. Transfer connectors one at a time against your photographs.

How you know it worked. Normal cooling and display behaviour over 24 hours.

Component demonstration
Whirlpool Refrigerator Replace Defrost Control Board #W10366605RepairClinic.com · not filmed on this specific model; the procedure is for the component

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $19.98–$24.99 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (1.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Ice maker

DIY. Call someone if the fill valve or water line inside the cabinet is involved.

Check, in this order

1. Give it the manual's 12 hours after any install or reset before judging it.
2. Confirm the freezer is below 0 F - the manual lists a warm freezer as a cause of no ice.
3. Check the dispenser lock is off, the ice maker is switched on, and the water line stop cock is open.
4. Hollow or small cubes point at the water filter or supply rather than the ice maker.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Turn off the water supply before disturbing the fill line.

Tools

• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
• Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.

The repair, in order

1. Give it the manual's 12 hours after any install or reset before calling it faulty.
2. Confirm the freezer is below 0 F - the manual lists a warm freezer as a cause of no ice.
3. Check the water line and stop cock, and that the dispenser lock is off.
4. If ice is hollow or small, replace the water filter before the ice maker.
5. Photograph the harness, unclip the assembly, fit the replacement.

How you know it worked. A full harvest within 24 hours, cubes solid rather than hollow.

Component demonstration
Whirlpool Refrigerator Replace Ice Maker Water Line 67006317RepairClinic.com · not filmed on this specific model; the procedure is for the component

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $6.99–$25.89 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (1.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Door switch

DIY.

Check, in this order

1. Press the switch by hand and watch the interior light.
2. Test continuity in both positions.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.

Tools

• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
• Thin putty knife ($5) — Releasing clips without marking the cabinet.

The repair, in order

1. Press the switch by hand and watch the interior light.
2. Prise the switch out carefully - the bezel marks easily.
3. Test continuity in both positions before replacing.

How you know it worked. Light and evaporator fan respond correctly as the door opens and closes.

Component demonstration
Whirlpool Refrigerator Door Switch Replacement #12002646RepairClinic.com · not filmed on this specific model; the procedure is for the component

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $6.19–$24.33 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (1.7%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Capacitor

The capacitor sits outside the sealed refrigerant system and is owner-replaceable. It shares its compartment with the compressor and the sealed system, though - if replacing the capacitor and relay doesn't restore normal starting, the compressor or sealed system is the suspect, and diagnosing or opening the sealed system requires EPA Section 608 certification, not a DIY step.

Check, in this order

1. Confirm the compressor is humming or tripping the breaker rather than staying silent - that pattern points at the run/start capacitor rather than the relay or the compressor windings.
2. Check the capacitor case for bulging, cracking, or leaked residue - visible damage is a reliable sign it has failed.
3. Test capacitance against the value printed on the capacitor's own label if your multimeter supports it.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator and confirm the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester.
• A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is removed - avoid touching its terminals with bare hands until the unit has sat unplugged for several minutes.
• Photograph the wiring before disconnecting the capacitor.

Tools

• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
• Non-contact voltage tester ($18) — Many ranges are hard-wired, not plugged in - confirm the circuit is actually dead before touching it.

The repair, in order

1. Access the compressor compartment and locate the capacitor, usually a small canister near the start relay.
2. Photograph the wiring, then disconnect the capacitor's leads.
3. Test the capacitor's condition (visible damage, or a capacitance reading against its label).
4. Fit the replacement capacitor with the same rating and reconnect the leads exactly as photographed.

How you know it worked. The compressor starts cleanly without humming or tripping the breaker, and the fridge holds temperature over 24 hours.

Component demonstration
Whirlpool Refrigerator Run Capacitor Replacement #W10350564RepairClinic.com · not filmed on this specific model; the procedure is for the component

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $8.99–$46.59 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (3.3%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Start relay

The start relay itself is a genuinely owner-replaceable part - it clips on and off the outside of the compressor. The compressor and its sealed refrigerant system are different: never open refrigerant lines or attempt to recharge the system yourself - that requires EPA Section 608 certification. If a new relay doesn't bring the compressor to life, the compressor itself or the sealed system is the next suspect, and that's a certified technician's job.

Check, in this order

1. Listen for a repeated clicking sound near the compressor every few minutes - that's the classic start-relay symptom, the compressor trying and failing to start.
2. Confirm the fridge is actually receiving power (outlet, cord, breaker) before suspecting the relay.
3. Pull the relay off the compressor terminals and shake it gently - a rattle can indicate a failed relay, though this isn't conclusive on its own.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Confirm the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester before touching anything near the compressor.
• The relay clips onto the compressor terminals - handle it, not the compressor's refrigerant lines or fittings.

Tools

• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
• Non-contact voltage tester ($18) — Many ranges are hard-wired, not plugged in - confirm the circuit is actually dead before touching it.

The repair, in order

1. Unclip the compressor terminal cover and locate the relay/overload assembly clipped to the compressor's side terminals.
2. Photograph the wiring before removing anything.
3. Pull the relay off the terminals and test it with the multimeter's continuity function between its terminals.
4. Fit the replacement relay onto the compressor terminals in the same orientation, and refit the terminal cover.

How you know it worked. The compressor starts and runs without clicking, and the fridge pulls down to temperature over the following hours.

Component demonstration
Whirlpool Matrix Refrigerator Start Relay Replacement W11092533RepairClinic.com · not filmed on this specific model; the procedure is for the component

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $51.99–$54.00 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (3.9%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Condenser fan

DIY. Escalate if the fan is fine and both compartments are still warm, which points at the sealed system - that is a licensed job.

Check, in this order

1. Pull the fridge out and feel the condenser coils - if they are furred with dust, clean them first and give it 24 hours.
2. With the compressor running, look at the fan: not spinning, or spinning and rattling, points here.
3. Spin the blade by hand with the power off; a seized or gritty bearing confirms it.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Let the compressor area cool - it runs hot.

Tools

• 5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
• Vacuum with a brush head ($0) — Condenser coils clog with dust and cause the same warm-fridge symptom as a dead fan.

The repair, in order

1. Pull the fridge out and remove the lower rear access panel.
2. Vacuum the condenser coils first - a clogged coil causes the same warm-fridge symptom and costs nothing to fix.
3. Spin the fan blade by hand: seized or noisy means replace; free and quiet means look elsewhere.
4. Photograph the wiring, unclip the fan assembly, fit the replacement.
5. Leave the panel off and confirm the fan runs when the compressor starts.

How you know it worked. Fan runs whenever the compressor runs, and both compartments pull down to temperature over 24 hours.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $20.99–$67.83 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (4.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Evaporator fan

DIY. If the blade was locked in ice, fix the defrost system instead - swapping the fan will not hold.

Check, in this order

1. Note the split: freezer cold but fridge warm is the classic evaporator-fan pattern.
2. Hold the freezer door switch in - the fan should run; silence with the switch held is the tell.
3. Remove the freezer rear panel and check the blade is not locked in ice; if it is, the defrost system is the real fault.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Empty the freezer; the panel cannot come off around food.

Tools

• 5/16" nut driver ($8) — Cabinet and bracket screws on most front-load machines are 5/16" hex.
• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.

The repair, in order

1. Open the freezer and listen: this fan normally stops when the door opens, so press the door switch to keep it running.
2. Remove the freezer rear panel to expose the evaporator and fan.
3. Check for an ice sheet locking the blade - if present the problem is the defrost system, not the fan.
4. Photograph the connector, swap the fan, refit the panel.

How you know it worked. Fridge compartment returns to temperature and the fan is audible with the door switch held in.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $26.91–$112.95 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (8.1%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Damper

DIY.

Check, in this order

1. Confirm food is not blocking the vents - the manual lists this first.
2. Check whether one compartment is at temperature while the other is not.
3. Watch the damper flap move; iced or jammed confirms it.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.

Tools

• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.

The repair, in order

1. Confirm food is not blocking the vents - the manual lists this first.
2. Locate the damper between freezer and fridge airflow paths.
3. Check the flap moves freely and is not iced or jammed.
4. Photograph the connector and swap the assembly.

How you know it worked. The fridge compartment holds its set temperature without the freezer over-cooling.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $18.99 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (1.4%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Temperature sensor

DIY once measured. If the reading is correct but cooling is wrong, the fault is elsewhere.

Check, in this order

1. Leave a thermometer inside for a few hours and compare against the display.
2. Test the thermistor's resistance against the service value before replacing.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.

Tools

• Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.

The repair, in order

1. Compare the displayed temperature against a thermometer left inside for a few hours.
2. Locate the thermistor in the affected compartment.
3. Test resistance against the service value before replacing.
4. Swap the sensor, reconnect, and let the fridge run 24 hours before judging.

How you know it worked. Displayed and measured temperature agree, and cooling cycles normally.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $8.59–$52.62 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (3.8%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Door seal

DIY.

Check, in this order

1. Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull - it should drag on all four sides.
2. Look for frost or condensation forming near the door edge, which the manual attributes to a door not closing properly.
3. Check the gasket for tears, and for food or a drawer holding the door open.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator for any panel work.

Tools

• Hair dryer ($0) — Thawing an iced evaporator or reshaping a deformed door gasket.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.

The repair, in order

1. Clean the gasket first - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause.
2. Do the paper test: close a sheet of paper in the door and pull; it should drag.
3. Warm a deformed gasket gently with a hair dryer and reshape before buying one.
4. If torn, peel the old gasket from its channel and press the new one in from the corners out.

How you know it worked. Paper test drags on all four sides and frost does not return at the door edge.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $39.98–$113.93 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (8.1%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Dispenser

DIY.

Check, in this order

1. Check the dispenser lock is off.
2. Look for ice jamming the chute - the manual notes jams after about three weeks unused.
3. Confirm the water filter is not overdue.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Turn off the water supply.

Tools

• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
• Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.

The repair, in order

1. Check the dispenser lock is off and the filter is not overdue.
2. Look for ice jamming the chute - the manual notes ice jams after about three weeks unused.
3. Photograph the harness before removing the dispenser assembly.

How you know it worked. Both water and ice dispense normally.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $101.64–$144.51 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (10.3%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Water tank

This is a straightforward owner swap; if water keeps appearing after replacing the tank, check the door seal and defrost drain next, since both produce a similar puddle.

Check, in this order

1. Confirm the tank is actually the source - trace the puddle back to the tank's location rather than the door seal or a defrost drain, both of which cause the same 'water inside the fridge' complaint.
2. Look for a hairline crack, especially near where the inlet and outlet lines connect.
3. Check that the tank is seated correctly in its mount - a dislodged tank can leak at its fittings without being cracked.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Turn off the household water supply before disconnecting any line to the tank.

Tools

• #2 Phillips screwdriver ($6) — Panel and bracket screws.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.
• Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.

The repair, in order

1. Locate the water tank/reservoir, typically behind a rear or lower panel depending on the model.
2. Photograph the inlet and outlet line connections before disconnecting them.
3. Remove the tank and inspect it for cracking versus a simple loose fitting.
4. Fit the replacement tank, reconnect the lines exactly as photographed, and reseat it in its mount.

How you know it worked. No water reappears inside the cabinet over several days of normal use, and the dispenser or ice maker still fills correctly.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $77.87–$84.99 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (6.1%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

Water inlet valve

The valve itself is a straightforward owner swap; if water is leaking from the household shutoff or supply line under pressure, that plumbing connection may be worth a plumber's attention.

Check, in this order

1. Confirm the shutoff valve behind or under the fridge is fully open - a partly closed valve mimics a failed inlet valve.
2. Check the supply line for a kink or freeze point before assuming the valve itself has failed.
3. Listen for the valve buzzing when the dispenser or ice maker calls for water - silence points to the valve or its wiring, buzzing with no flow points downstream.

Before you open anything

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Turn off the household water supply before disconnecting any water line.
• Keep a towel and shallow pan under the valve - line disconnects always drip.

Tools

• Adjustable wrench ($14) — Gas supply and manifold fittings; also water-line compression fittings on ice maker supply tubes.
• Multimeter ($25) — Confirm continuity before replacing an electrical part.
• Slip-joint pliers ($12) — Hose clamps and inlet filter screens.
• Shallow pan and towels ($0) — Residual water always comes out, even after draining.
• Flashlight ($0) — Boot, sump and pump housings are dark.
• Phone camera ($0) — Photograph connector positions before unplugging anything.

The repair, in order

1. Locate the water inlet valve, usually behind the lower rear access panel or under the unit.
2. Photograph the wiring harness and water-line connections before disconnecting anything.
3. Test the valve's solenoid coils for continuity with the multimeter.
4. Disconnect the water lines and harness, replace the valve, and reconnect using the photos as a reference.
5. Turn the water supply back on and check every fitting for drips before pushing the fridge back.

How you know it worked. Water dispenses and the ice maker fills on the next cycle, with no drips at any reconnected fitting.

Worth fixing? Repair - the part is a small fraction of a new machine. Part $35.77–$48.99 against $1,399.99 for a new machine (3.5%).Part cost only. A service call adds a regional diagnostic fee plus labour.

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