Refrigerator parts and repair
We hold documented failures for 49 refrigerator models, with 1,120 fitment-verified parts priced from live listings. The median part is $23.95, and 73% cost under $50. Most of what goes wrong is cheap; the expensive part of a repair is usually finding out which part it is.
Which part fits your refrigerator?
The model number is on a sticker inside the door, behind the kick plate, or on the back. Everything below depends on it — which part fits, what it costs today, and whether the repair is worth doing at all.
What actually fails on a refrigerator
Ordered by how many of our documented models carry that part — not by likelihood. We hold no failure-frequency data and will not imply one.
| Component | Models | Typical part | Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dispenser | 169 | $22.97 | $3.99–$186.14 |
| Ice Maker | 138 | $52.05 | $5.89–$190.99 |
| Water Inlet Valve | 122 | $21.84 | $14.99–$96.99 |
| Evaporator Fan | 114 | $17.99 | $8.99–$185.40 |
| Door Seal | 92 | $45.99 | $6.89–$176.70 |
| Control Board | 90 | $61.01 | $9.00–$740.59 |
| Damper | 62 | $36.97 | $18.99–$193.48 |
| Door Hinge | 54 | $29.51 | $4.89–$219.25 |
| Condenser Fan | 48 | $20.99 | $8.34–$150.46 |
| Start Relay | 46 | $14.59 | $8.99–$72.82 |
| Temperature Sensor | 38 | $8.46 | $5.89–$67.92 |
| Defrost Heater | 34 | $31.39 | $6.07–$147.71 |
| Capacitor | 29 | $10.99 | $8.99–$45.85 |
| Defrost Thermostat | 24 | $9.49 | $4.17–$59.98 |
| Door Switch | 21 | $8.99 | $4.37–$52.37 |
| Water Tank | 10 | $84.35 | $31.69–$180.95 |
Swipe the table sideways to see the price range →
5 further components documented.
Try the free check first
Every documented failure we hold for a refrigerator has a check that costs nothing, and it comes before any part. Some of them are the whole fix:
- Check the ice maker is switched on and the water supply is open - the manual's first two causes need no parts.
- Deactivate the dispenser lock and clear any ice jam in the chute - both are manual-listed, no-part causes.
- Unblock the vents and redistribute food away from the airflow path.
- Clean around the switch - sticky residue holds it in and the fridge thinks the door is open.
- Clean the gasket - the manual lists a dirty gasket as a frost cause, and a warmed, reshaped gasket often seals again.
Is it worth fixing?
Usually, yes. Across the models where we can run the full comparison, replacing a working refrigerator with a typical current one saves a median of about $1.32 a year in running cost — nothing. The efficiency floor has barely moved, so a $25 part on a machine with years left is almost always the better number.
We can run that arithmetic in full on 19 refrigerator models — the ones where a documented repair record and a federal energy certification both exist for the same machine. Check yours.
Start from the symptom
By brand
Frigidaire / Electrolux · GE · LG · Samsung · Whirlpool
Refrigerators with a full repair record
- Frigidaire FFSS2315TS0
- Frigidaire FFTR1814TW8
- GE GSE25GSHPCSS
- KitchenAid KRFF507HPS02
- KitchenAid KRMF706ESS01
- LG LFCS22520S
- Maytag MFI2570FEZ00
- Samsung RF27T5501SRAA51
- Whirlpool JUW24FRECX00
- Whirlpool WRF535SWHZ
- Whirlpool WRF736SDAM
- Whirlpool WRS325FDAM01
- Whirlpool WRS325FDAM04
- Whirlpool WRT318FMDB02
- Whirlpool WRX735SDHZ
- Whirlpool WSR57R18DM01
- Whirlpool WSZ57L18DM00
Not worth fixing?
Every certified refrigerator we hold, ranked by what it actually costs to run within its own size class. Compare refrigerators →